ANGAMI

The Angami people of Nagaland are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, particularly in basket weaving, beaded jewelry making, and wood carving. Their baskets are especially notable for their precision, design, and functionality, with the khophi being their signature basket. Typically conical in shape, the khophi features a woven head strap for carrying on the back and is equipped with a bamboo stand that allows it to stand independently. Made from locally abundant bamboo and cane, these baskets are woven with great skill, often taking weeks or even months to complete. The weaving process involves the use of simple hand tools, with the split bamboo and cane stored above the fireplace, which naturally darkens and fumigates the fibers. The intricate patterns and uniform tension in the weave reflect the dexterity of the Angami weavers. Though once a common practice in every household, basket weaving has become a rare skill, with only a few elderly artisans left to carry on the tradition. Today, many villagers purchase baskets from these remaining craftsmen, while others are sold as decorative pieces or gifts, often varnished for display.

In addition to basketry, the Angamis are skilled in creating beaded jewelry, a craft that holds cultural significance and is used for both decorative and ceremonial purposes. The Angami people make intricate necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, often featuring elaborate beadwork that reflects their identity and social status. Beaded jewelry is typically worn during festivals, rituals and other important occasions.

Wood carving is another traditional craft practised by the Angamis. They carve wooden items such as household tools, utensils and ceremonial objects, often decorating them with detailed patterns. The craft is deeply rooted in their cultural expressions and plays an integral role in both their daily life and spiritual practices, making it an important part of the Angami people’s artistic legacy.

Basketry

Basketry is one of the most distinctive and revered craft traditions among the Angami people of Nagaland. Known for their precision and skillful designs, the Angami basket weavers are celebrated for creating highly functional and aesthetically pleasing baskets. The most iconic and widely used basket in the Angami community is the khophi, which serves as the signature basket of the tribe. The khophi is a conical-shaped basket that flares outward at the top, designed specifically for carrying goods. It is equipped with a woven head strap for ease of carrying, allowing it to be worn on the back, and also features a bamboo stand with legs so that it can stand on its own when placed down. This combination of features makes the khophi a highly functional and convenient item for the Angami people, suitable for various tasks, from carrying agricultural produce to gathering materials in the forest.

The primary materials used in Angami basketry are bamboo and cane, both of which grow abundantly in the local environment. The split bamboo and cane are carefully stored on a rack suspended above the fireplace, where they are naturally darkened and fumigated through exposure to smoke. This process not only contributes to the natural dark color of the materials but also helps in preserving them. The basket-making process itself involves simple hand tools, which are typically used by men in the community. The precision of the weaves, the uniformity of the tension and the intricate patterns demonstrate the high level of skill and dexterity required to craft these baskets.

Basket-making is an art that requires patience and expertise. Depending on the complexity of the weave, it can take up to a month to complete a single basket. The patterns woven into the baskets are unique to the Angami people, often reflecting cultural symbolism and a deep understanding of natural material. The fine craftsmanship and attention to detail ensure that the baskets are not only functional but also visually appealing.

In the past, basket weaving was a widespread practice, with men from every household involved in crafting baskets for daily use. However, as time has passed, the number of artisans skilled in this craft has dwindled. Today, only a few elderly artisans remain who are capable of producing these traditional baskets. As a result, the skill has become rare, and many villagers now order their baskets from the few remaining craftsmen. Although the tradition of basket weaving is at risk of disappearing, the Angami people have adapted to changing times. Baskets are now also made for decorative purposes, often varnished and sold as showpieces or used as gifts, allowing the legacy of Angami basketry to continue in a new form while preserving its cultural significance.

Beadwork

The Angami people of Nagaland are also renowned for their intricate beadwork, which holds both cultural and ceremonial importance. Beaded jewellery is not just an adornment but a symbol of status, identity, and personal achievements within the community. The Angamis craft delicate necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and headpieces, often using colourful glass beads and shells. These pieces are worn during festivals, rituals and other significant events, representing social status and community ties. The beadwork designs are often complex, with motifs that reflect natural elements and colours that resonate with the individual's tribal affiliation, showcasing the artistry, technique and skill of the maker. The pieces are meticulously created, with beads strung together in specific patterns that are passed down as a lineage, keeping the craft alive as an essential part of Angami culture.

Woodcarving

Wood carving is another important craft tradition among the Angamis, integral to both their daily life and spiritual practices. Skilled artisans carve a variety of items, including household tools, utensils, ceremonial objects, and decorative pieces. Wood carving is an expression of creativity, often featuring intricate patterns and designs that reflect the cultural significance of the object. Carvings may be symbolic, depicting elements of nature or ancestral beliefs, and they often play a role in religious rituals or community ceremonies. The craftsmanship involved in wood carving requires great precision, as well as a deep understanding of the materials used. The Angami wood carving tradition continues to thrive, as artisans combine age-old techniques with contemporary influences to preserve and evolve this essential cultural practice.

The Angami community’s textile traditions are a vibrant reflection of their cultural values, historical legacy, and artistic expression. Weaving is not just a practical craft but a powerful narrative that communicates the tribe’s identity, social structure, and spiritual beliefs. The Angami women create a variety of textiles that are rich in symbolism, each piece carrying a unique meaning and purpose.

One of the key garments in Angami attire is the Lorumhoushu, a fabric with a white base adorned with red and black bands. This textile is a symbol of cultural pride and is worn on important occasions. Another notable fabric is the Lohe, which features a black base with red and yellow bands, often worn as a part of ceremonial dress. The Phichu-pfe is a distinctive cloth worn by the priest, further underscoring the spiritual significance textiles hold in Angami society. The Ratapfe, a black shawl, is commonly worn for casual wear by both men and women, showcasing the versatility of Angami textiles. The Kilt, a plain black cloth worn by men, is often embroidered with lines of cowries, adding a touch of elegance and distinction to the garment.

In addition to weaving, the Angami people once possessed a deep knowledge of natural dyeing techniques, which played an important role in the creation of their textiles. This traditional knowledge, however, has nearly faded with time. The dyeing process was closely tied to the agricultural cycles, with specific techniques and timings considered both practical and spiritual. The craft of dyeing was regarded as a vital cultural practice, and the decline of this knowledge marks a significant loss to the community’s artistic heritage.

Each Angami village has its own distinct weaving style and patterns, further emphasizing the diversity within the community. The Mhoushii, a traditional textile from the village of Khonoma, is a prime example of this cultural richness. Known for its intricate designs, the Mhoushii has become a symbol of Khonoma’s identity. Recognizing its cultural importance, the Khonoma community has applied for Geographical Indication (GI) status to protect and preserve this valuable craft. The GI status would not only safeguard the Mhoushii but also raise awareness and appreciation of its unique artistry on a global scale.

Among the most iconic textiles are the traditional black woolen shawls and wraps, often decorated with motifs of animals like tigers and mithuns. These shawls were historically worn by Angami warriors and are symbolic of the community’s bravery, strength, and historical headhunting traditions. The intricate designs on these textiles reflect the warrior spirit and the deep connection between the Angami people and their cultural heritage. These shawls continue to be worn on special occasions, preserving the community’s identity while honoring their past.

In essence, Angami textiles are not merely functional garments; they are living expressions of culture, history, and identity. Each woven thread tells a story of the community’s values, spiritual beliefs, and ancestral traditions, making the art of weaving an integral part of their cultural legacy.