ARTICLES

The Angami community’s textile traditions are a vibrant reflection of their cultural values, historical legacy, and artistic expression. Weaving is not just a practical craft but a powerful narrative that communicates the tribe’s identity, social structure, and spiritual beliefs. The Angami women create a variety of textiles that are rich in symbolism, each piece carrying a unique meaning and purpose.

One of the key garments in Angami attire is the Lorumhoushu, a fabric with a white base adorned with red and black bands. This textile is a symbol of cultural pride and is worn on important occasions. Another notable fabric is the Lohe, which features a black base with red and yellow bands, often worn as a part of ceremonial dress. The Phichu-pfe is a distinctive cloth worn by the priest, further underscoring the spiritual significance textiles hold in Angami society. The Ratapfe, a black shawl, is commonly worn for casual wear by both men and women, showcasing the versatility of Angami textiles. The Kilt, a plain black cloth worn by men, is often embroidered with lines of cowries, adding a touch of elegance and distinction to the garment.

In addition to weaving, the Angami people once possessed a deep knowledge of natural dyeing techniques, which played an important role in the creation of their textiles. This traditional knowledge, however, has nearly faded with time. The dyeing process was closely tied to the agricultural cycles, with specific techniques and timings considered both practical and spiritual. The craft of dyeing was regarded as a vital cultural practice, and the decline of this knowledge marks a significant loss to the community’s artistic heritage.

Each Angami village has its own distinct weaving style and patterns, further emphasizing the diversity within the community. The Mhoushii, a traditional textile from the village of Khonoma, is a prime example of this cultural richness. Known for its intricate designs, the Mhoushii has become a symbol of Khonoma’s identity. Recognizing its cultural importance, the Khonoma community has applied for Geographical Indication (GI) status to protect and preserve this valuable craft. The GI status would not only safeguard the Mhoushii but also raise awareness and appreciation of its unique artistry on a global scale.

Among the most iconic textiles are the traditional black woolen shawls and wraps, often decorated with motifs of animals like tigers and mithuns. These shawls were historically worn by Angami warriors and are symbolic of the community’s bravery, strength, and historical headhunting traditions. The intricate designs on these textiles reflect the warrior spirit and the deep connection between the Angami people and their cultural heritage. These shawls continue to be worn on special occasions, preserving the community’s identity while honoring their past.

In essence, Angami textiles are not merely functional garments; they are living expressions of culture, history, and identity. Each woven thread tells a story of the community’s values, spiritual beliefs, and ancestral traditions, making the art of weaving an integral part of their cultural legacy.