TEXTILES

The Chakhesang tribe is renowned for its vibrant creativity, vividly reflected in their attire and ornaments. Every pattern, motif, line, and color in their garments tells a meaningful story, passed down faithfully through generations. Their mastery of cotton cultivation, spinning, dyeing, and weaving predates the advent of Christianity, with nettle fibers and deccan jute also being integral to their textiles.

Chakhesang women, celebrated for their weaving prowess, traditionally used the loin loom to craft handwoven shawls and garments, each piece unique in concept and execution. While their ancestors adorned themselves in colorful attire during festivals, everyday clothing was more subdued, made from practical materials like nettle and jute for tasks like harvesting or carrying goods. These garments balanced utility with artistry, embodying the Chakhesangs' cultural depth.

 Exclusive designs with mostly geometric motifs and colours are woven for men and women, rich and the ordinary, leaders and warriors, and so on. It is fascinating to see how they represent their status, power, and role in the community through their shawls and scarves. Chakhesang weaving has been granted Geographical Indication (GI) status, which legally protects the unique craft and its association with the Chakhesang region.

Traditional designs are categorized into horizontal bands, intricate woven patterns, needlework, and hemmed edges. These patterns not only added aesthetic value but also signified honor and recognition, with special shawls reserved for warriors and the affluent as symbols of achievement.

Weaving was once a universal skill among Chakhesang women, taught from a young age with toy looms made from ginger lily fibers. However, as modernity reshaped interests, traditional arts, particularly weaving, faced decline. Today, a few dedicated women are reviving this legacy by adapting traditional patterns for contemporary designs, preserving the tribe's rich cultural heritage while ensuring its relevance in the modern world.

Shawl of the Feast of Merit : THÜPIKHU/THSÜKETSÜRA

In the Chakhesang community, hosting grand feasts of merit was a revered tradition symbolizing prosperity, generosity, and social honour. These feasts, involving abundant food, rice beer, and elaborate rituals, were open to the entire village and sometimes neighbouring villages. Hosting such events required immense preparation and years of saving, reflecting the host family's hard work and commitment.

The highest honour for completing these feasts was the entitlement to wear special shawls, such as the Thüpikhü and Rüzakhü, which were badges of merit. These shawls, adorned with intricate motifs like elephants, stars, and geometric patterns, symbolized accomplishments, blessings, and prosperity. The shawls were not hereditary; each generation had to earn the right to wear them through their deeds.

Traditionally, only families with three or four daughters could weave the Thüpikhü shawl, adhering to strict taboos. The entire process had to be completed within a single day, emphasizing the shawl's exclusivity. Women’s versions featured motifs of conches, brass bangles, and other feminine symbols, paired with matching wrap-around skirts.

The Motifs and Meanings

The shawl represents the highest honour, symbolizing prosperity and generosity. Originally, it was the couple who had performed all the designated feasts of merit that were bestowed with this honour. The patterns and colours on the shawl, such as white, green, and red, indicate the various accomplishments the wearer has achieved. Each motif on the shawl carries its significance:

• Elephant: The elephant motif signifies strength and abundance. It also symbolizes prosperity, as elephants require less food compared to their size and strength. This pattern represents powerful virtues and an abundance of meat.

• Mithun: The mithun, a traditionally reared animal, is highly valued above other species during feasts. The affluent families hosting a 'Feast of Merit' for the village, consider the mithun the most preferred animal. The skulls of mithuns are often preserved and used to decorate the homes of the rich. The motif of the mithun on a shawl symbolizes wealth and prosperity.

• Animal Head: Those who have performed the 'Feast of Merit', were given the privilege of decorating the entrance of their homes with a carved wooden head of a mithun or buffalo. They are also entitled to adorn their homes with Horns on top. This motif richly symbolizes the honour associated with performing this traditional rite and is thus depicted on the shawl.

• Star: The star motif represents brightness, much like a star in the sky. It symbolizes happiness and contentment and reflects the idea that the stars shine for everyone and flowers bloom for all , everyone is equal in the true spirit of humanity.

• Peacock : The shawl also features a peacock motif to signify beauty, suggesting that all who are entitled to wear it would be as beautiful as this magnificent bird.

• Flower : The flower symbolizes happiness and contentment shared among all people partaking in the feast regardless of being rich or poor.

• Butterfly : Representing good spirits, the butterfly is a symbol taken for its elegance, smartness, light and swift movements.

• Sun/Moon : The sun and moon symbolize eternity.

• Pleats : The parallel pleats in between the shawl depict the milestone achieved after the toils and sweats.

Source : Chakhesang Naga - Attires & Ornaments (2nd ed.). (n.d.). Chakhesang Women Welfare Society.

The Aos have a large variety of textiles used as wraparounds and shawls signifying gender, social status, marital status, and clan identity of the community as a whole. Earlier fabrics were woven in cotton, but now it is done with acrylic yarns.The women community body of Khensa village has documented 18 different varieties of textiles worn only in Khensa by the 7 clans who live there. Currently there are about 10 weavers in Khensa and the skills are not transmitted anymore. Of all the shawls worn by men, the warrior shawl, ‘tsüngkotepsü’ is the most gorgeous with many symbolic elements including animals and birds denoting courage, power, bravery, and wealth. The tiger signifies fierceness, the lion denotes the humility in kingliness, the elephant marks the strength and humility, Hornbill represents fame, mithuns reveal wealth of a man evidenced by the hosting of a mithun festival, the sun, moon and the stars represent the universal light of the days and nights. The body of the shawl woven in red and black stripes has a white panel in the middle containing these motifs. This white band used to be hand painted in the past but nowadays they are mostly woven. In the olden days it was worn by warriors who had successfully killed and collected the heads of their enemies. In modern times, it is worn only by the rich men who have sacrificed mithuns and have demonstrated wealth. A special shawl, ‘surem su’, was worn only by the rich families in the past as it used to be dyed in natural indigo. Natural indigo dyeing was a unique traditional skill specific to the Ao community which is now a lost tradition. Some women still own such indigo shawls which are part of their cherished heirloom. Apart from the traditional wear, some women also weave contemporary designs for local markets which can be worn by all women.

The Angami community’s textile traditions are a vibrant reflection of their cultural values, historical legacy, and artistic expression. Weaving is not just a practical craft but a powerful narrative that communicates the tribe’s identity, social structure, and spiritual beliefs. The Angami women create a variety of textiles that are rich in symbolism, each piece carrying a unique meaning and purpose.

One of the key garments in Angami attire is the Lorumhoushu, a fabric with a white base adorned with red and black bands. This textile is a symbol of cultural pride and is worn on important occasions. Another notable fabric is the Lohe, which features a black base with red and yellow bands, often worn as a part of ceremonial dress. The Phichu-pfe is a distinctive cloth worn by the priest, further underscoring the spiritual significance textiles hold in Angami society. The Ratapfe, a black shawl, is commonly worn for casual wear by both men and women, showcasing the versatility of Angami textiles. The Kilt, a plain black cloth worn by men, is often embroidered with lines of cowries, adding a touch of elegance and distinction to the garment.

In addition to weaving, the Angami people once possessed a deep knowledge of natural dyeing techniques, which played an important role in the creation of their textiles. This traditional knowledge, however, has nearly faded with time. The dyeing process was closely tied to the agricultural cycles, with specific techniques and timings considered both practical and spiritual. The craft of dyeing was regarded as a vital cultural practice, and the decline of this knowledge marks a significant loss to the community’s artistic heritage.

Each Angami village has its own distinct weaving style and patterns, further emphasizing the diversity within the community. The Mhoushii, a traditional textile from the village of Khonoma, is a prime example of this cultural richness. Known for its intricate designs, the Mhoushii has become a symbol of Khonoma’s identity. Recognizing its cultural importance, the Khonoma community has applied for Geographical Indication (GI) status to protect and preserve this valuable craft. The GI status would not only safeguard the Mhoushii but also raise awareness and appreciation of its unique artistry on a global scale.

Among the most iconic textiles are the traditional black woolen shawls and wraps, often decorated with motifs of animals like tigers and mithuns. These shawls were historically worn by Angami warriors and are symbolic of the community’s bravery, strength, and historical headhunting traditions. The intricate designs on these textiles reflect the warrior spirit and the deep connection between the Angami people and their cultural heritage. These shawls continue to be worn on special occasions, preserving the community’s identity while honoring their past.

In essence, Angami textiles are not merely functional garments; they are living expressions of culture, history, and identity. Each woven thread tells a story of the community’s values, spiritual beliefs, and ancestral traditions, making the art of weaving an integral part of their cultural legacy.